A Study: Material, Construction, and Craft Techniques Used in Kolhapuri Chappal Manufacturing

Abstract

Since the Early Vedic Period, Indian footwear in particular has been known to be home to a variety of craft styles. The origins of everything we use today are likely thousands of years old; even digital communication technology has developed over the past 100 years. The purpose of the study is to analyze the materials, construction techniques, and craft methods applied to the production of Kolhapuri chappal. The use of vegetable leather in order to enhance quality of Kolhapuri Chappal is the main focus of the study. In addition, it discusses the methods used by expert craftspeople for cutting, shaping, hand-stitching, and finishing leather. The elaborate braiding, weaving, and decorative details that characterize Kolhapuri chappals\' aesthetic identity are given particular attention. India\'s culture, society, and religion have always recognized the value of feet and footwear. Kolhapur, a town in Maharashtra, is the origin of the Kolhapuri chappals. This craft style is a labor-intensive production method that makes use of antiquated tools and machinery. Today’s technology has developed over the past 100 years.

Introduction

Footwear has held cultural and religious significance in India since ancient times, with feet regarded as sacred yet humble, leading to both veneration and careful craftsmanship in footwear. Over millennia, India developed a diverse range of shoes—including sandals, slippers, and boots—using materials such as leather, wood, metals, and textiles. Traditional Indian sandals like paduka were often made from wood or metal, as cow leather was avoided for religious reasons.

During the Mughal era, leather craftsmanship expanded to luxurious goods, while British rule industrialized the leather industry, especially for military boots and belts. However, certain regions, such as Kanpur, Chennai, and Kolhapur, maintained traditional handmade practices. Kolhapuri chappals, originating in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, have been crafted using vegetable-tanned leather since the 12th–13th century and are celebrated for durability, intricate designs, and eco-friendly production. These chappals provide economic opportunities for rural artisans and preserve traditional craft knowledge, supporting sustainable and gender-inclusive livelihoods.

The study focuses on documenting the materials, construction techniques, and tools used in Kolhapuri chappal production. Key raw materials include vegetable-tanned leather, black soil, and natural tanning agents like babul and hirda. Traditional tools such as the rapi (moon-shaped knife), palakna (wooden base), and various stamping and shaping instruments are employed for cutting, decorating, and assembling the chappals. Bag tanning, an environmentally friendly process, ensures durable leather while retaining natural characteristics. The research highlights the cultural, economic, and ecological significance of this artisanal craft and emphasizes the need to preserve it in contemporary times.

Conclusion

The study of Kolhapuri Chappal highlights its rich heritage, skilled craftsmanship, and traditional knowledge involved in the production process. The research examined the materials, tools, construction methods, and decorative techniques used by artisans, showing how natural leather and handmade practices contribute to the durability and uniqueness of this footwear. It also explored both traditional and contemporary styles, demonstrating how the craft has evolved over time while still preserving its cultural identity. Despite modernization and increasing competition from machine-made footwear, Kolhapuri Chappal continues to represent an important part of India’s artisanal heritage. Preserving these traditional craft techniques and supporting artisan communities is essential for sustaining this cultural legacy. With the growing demand for handmade and sustainable products, Kolhapuri chappals have strong potential to remain relevant in the modern fashion market while continuing to reflect traditional craftsmanship and cultural value.

References

[1] (Dasani, 2022) [2] (National Craft Museum, n.d.) [3] (Erande) [4] (Dore, 2019) [5] Ranjan, A., & Ranjan, M. P. (2007). Handmade in India: Crafts of India. Council of Handicraft Development Corporations. [6] Chattopadhyay, K. (1980). Handicrafts of India. Indian Council for Cultural Relations. [7] National Crafts Museum. (n.d.). Catalogue and craft documentation. Government of India. [8] D’Source. (n.d.). Kolhapuri chappal craft documentation. IDC School of Design, IIT Bombay.

Copyright

Copyright © 2026 Neelam Patel. This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited.